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Merry Christmas: FHP

For Sailing season:

Fish House Punch

There's a little place just out of town,
Where, if you go to lunch,
They'll make you forget your mother-in-law
With a drink called Fish-House Punch.

The Cook (1885)


Original Fish House Punch Recipe:

A batch consists of:
30 limes, cut in half and squeezed, such pulp as gets through is fine
15 lemons, treat as above
This constitutes a "Part" for measuring the rest of the ingredients:
1 Part dark rum
2 Parts light rum... Use a reasonable quality!
1 Part brandy
1 Part brown sugar
1 Part water, in the form of a block of ice

Put sugar into a suitable container that has a lid. Gently work the citrus into the sugar until wetted out and then add the rest of the ingredients.

Ease the ice into the container gently as we do not want to waste any of this precious stuff! Gently "bail" the mix over the ice, cap it and repeat this every couple of hours until time to serve it.

This is the most important part: do the preparation and mixing early in the morning the day of the party and mix the ingredients every few hours to "mellow" them together into what will be a most refreshing punch. It is most proper to sample the batch each time it is mixed, to monitor the manner in which the materials are melding together. The recipe may be further diluted with strong tea as needed.


What is the Rotary GSE?

Group Study Exchange is designed to develop professional and leadership skills among young adults so that they can address the needs of their communities in an increasingly global workplace.

This adult exchange is an educational program of The Rotary Foundation where Rotary Districts in overseas are paired to send and receive professional study groups of 4 team members and a Rotarian team leader to travel for several weeks. It encourages team members and hosts to meet, communicate and live with each other in a spirit of fellowship and goodwill to promote international understanding.
First Day in Kiruna
Our first day in Kiruna was a day of rest and boy did we rest. We started out with a morning of cross country skiing, lunch and then off sightseeing by walking around the town on our own. We visited the most beautiful church voted by the Swedes in 2001. Pictures will be coming soon.That evening our families picked us up at the hotel. Laura and Sandy our staying with Anna the coordinator for GSE here in Kiruna. The agenda for our second day was a visit to the mine that is the principal employer in Kiruna. This is one of the largest iron ore mines and in fact is the the largest underground iron mine in the world. Off we went with our security helmets on a bus that took us to the far inner reaches of the mine tunnels.The afternoon took us farther north in Sweden. We thought we were already far north, well we went all the way to Norway and then crossed the border to view one the spectacular fjords. On our way back we were very lucky to witness a reinder migration crossing of a herd of about 100 heading to the higher mountain regions where their young will be born.The evening dinner was with the Rotary Club of Kiruna and our presentation. Later we had a tour of the new boutique hotel where the club meets.
All is well and we are having a fabulous time.

2nd Day in Kiruna

Our second day in Kiruna was spent on a tour of the LKAB Iron mine which is the main employer in the town. LKAB is the largest tunneled iron mine in the world and is working round the clock to meet increased worldwide demand. Our tour took us deep in the mine with a guide that showed us all aspects of the operation. They have developed a new technique that processes the iron ore into a customized pellet that can be shipped anywhere in the world to meet exact manufacturing specifications.

Because the mine and the town are so integrated, as the mine develops so does the city. The mine is tunneling towards the city underground as it follows a strong deposit of iorn. This has caused the above ground to become unstable causing cracks, cave-ins, and unsafe conditions in areas above. Because of this a large section of Kiruna, including the city hall, homes, and business areas will have to be moved. The time frame is in stages and a model in the city hall shows the anticipated plan. The scale of this move is enormous and will require state, local, and mine funding.

The people of Kiruna are very accepting of this move and see it as part of the condition of living near and with a mine.

In the afternoon, we left for a drive to the north through the mountains and lake country where many Swedes vacation in the summer and have summer homes. We went across the border into Norway for a fabulous view of the fjords seen from the top of the mountain.,

Gällivare in Lapland

Hello from Gallivare,
We took the train from Kiruna to Gallivare, a little over one hour´s ride. Not to be missed, the local Rotarians, led by Sven-Eric, met us carrying a large American& Swedish flags. Sven-Eric and his fellow Rotarians and have gone out of their way to make our time here well spent.

Host families have been more than accommodating. All of us have private rooms and comfortable surroundings. The food has been amazing with a lot of reindeer and moose - no meatballs so far.

We had our first vocational days. Laura spent the day with a vet in town, Sandy went to a greenhouse plant grower in the Arctic, Erin is staying with the chief of police and both she and Alex visited the largest emergency helicopter service. Vanessa learned about working in Sweden at an insurance agency. The Rotarians have been great in setting up the vocational days for us.

Lastly, we visted a large gold, siver, copper mine and actually went into the working part of the open pit mine. Photos will be added.

Our final evening in Gallivare was magically spent in a Sami tent around an open fire hearing a Sami tell us the stories of his people. We sat on reindeer skins, drank vodka, and had reindeer served in a type of bread wrap. More posts to come.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

We have left Gallivare -- we are on the way to Jokkmokk for lunch, a tour of the Sami Museum, and then to the Arctic Circle. The snow was so deep in Gallivare that you could hardly see the houses. It has continued to snow all the way to Jokkmokk -- the driving is slow. On the way, we stopped and met Rotarians from Jokkmokk and a wonderful stop at an English woman's photo studio featuring her collections of the Northern Lights prints. They are spectacular in this area because there so little light from any city and so the night sky is dark. She told us that they are tied to the sun eruptions and can be best seen in winter on clear nights. We unfortunately have not seen anything because of the clouds every night. Her photos and slide show were incredible.

Lunch in Jokkmokk was a treat- pizza of every kind, but especially reindeer pizza that was excellent. We were met by Lennart, Rotarian GSE coordinator for the district. He says Hi to Alma. They planned a surprise for us when crossing the Arctic Circle. We had to jump across the Arctic Circle line and then drink a cup of vodka. I am glad that it was not reverse.

NEXT on to Luleå

Luleå

Luleå is the first large city that we are visiting (pop.: over 100,000) and it is also our first city on the coast of Sweden's Baltic. It is located on the mouth of the Lule river and is a port for raw materials for the mines to the north.

Lennart, the District GSE Chair and his wife Margareta hosted all of us for a dinner party upon arrival. We were able to get together with the host families and enjoy a wonderful evening of hospitality.

Luleå has 4 Rotary clubs, they each meet at noon, so we will give our District presentations Mon.,Tues., and Wed., but we will not be here for the Friday meeting. Instead, the Rotarians have planned great vocational days for us. Stay tuned for reports from the team.

ICE HOTEL

Greetings from the Ice Hotel!

When we arrived for a tour we were able to see how the ice blocks were made from the Torne river, how the hotel is constructed new each year from solid river ice, though it melts by the end of April. There's of a chapel where weddings are held, suites and rooms of ice with beds of ice, the Absolute Bar, a gift shop and lodge. Many of the rooms are unique with ice sculptures and carvings on themes,

At the Absolute Bar, vodka is served in a clear ice glass that chills the drink while you are sipping it. The entire glass is made of ice with a whole bored in the center. The amazing part is that your lips do not freeze to the glass and it is comfortable and refreshing to drink right from the ice glass.

We have all enjoyed our stays with our host families and leave by train this afternoon to Gallivare.

Erin's Vocation Experience

At Luleå I was able to visit a Swedish prison. It houses 9 inmates between the ages of 18 and 23, that were sentenced to prison. Surprisingly, I was able to meet and talk with all the inmates. They wanted to know if the justice system in the US was just like 'Cops' the tv show. I assured them it was not. They were all interested in US culture and jails in the US. I was also able while in Luleå to visit a Swedish Courthouse. The most interesting thing I found is that a defendant does not have to be present to be sentenced. The judge makes the ruling if the person is absent from the hearing, and they are notified by mail what the judgement is. This is not the way it is in the US! I also was able to visit the Swedish Court of Appeals in Umeå. The courts are divided much like the US -- first, local court then if the judgement is appealed, it goes to the Court of Appeal and finally to the Swedish Supreme Court, just like the US.

While in Skellefteå I visited a police station and spoke with a Sergeant about crime in the city. Like the US, they are battling drug use in the city. The major drug they see are amphetamines which are a problem in parts of the US. We also discussed some high profile unsloved murders in the area. It was very interesting. I was given a tour of the police station including the lock up area where they hold offenders. I was also given a private tour of the police cars which are Volvo stationwagons, much different than the US. Overall I think the police function much like the police in the US. I had a wonderful experience visiting criminal justice agencies in Sweden.

Trip of a Lifetime

Today we visited the port of Luleå, had a tour and overview of the port, and boarded an ice breaker vessel that clears the harbor of ice for incoming ships. BUT that is not all that we did. The ice breaker departed with all of us on board for an ice breaking trip up the Lule River. It was amazing to see and feel the ice breaker crushing the ice but then the ship stopped in the middle of the ice. Much to our surprise the captain asked us if we would like to climb off the vessel on to the ice in the middle of the river. Laura was the first to go with all of us soon following. The captain said that we were the first guests that he had allowed to do this. We agree that this was a trip up a river that none of us would forget.

Vanessa's Vocational Day at Assurera

The team set out for its first vocational day in Gallivare bright and early on Thursday, April 3rd. I (Vanessa) visited Assurera, a small insurance brokerage company specializing in private pension placements and insurance solutions. The company is small, with a total of 4 employees, and was founded 5 years ago by Mikael Lundman. He and one his employees, Annika, spent the entire day telling me about his company and the Swedish insurance brokerage and pension system, as well as employee benefits.

Employees have great social benefits in Sweden, and thus, costs are great for small employers. Three types of insurances available are arbelsogormaga(illness/disability), alderdom (pension), and dodsfell(death/life insurance). Within each of these categories is a pyramid type structure of protection. The base and largest portion of the pyramid is provided by the government, the second level of the pyramid is provided by the union, and the top of the pyramid is additional protection the individual may purchase.

The government stipulates how/provides a guideline of how funds should be allocated:

Stocks: 43.5%
Bonds: 40.5%
Alternative Investments: 8.5%
Real Estate: 7.5%

Companies have to work within those guidelines. Most rules are set to protect employees.

In addition, employees get generous maternity, sick, and vacation times in Swedish companies. Women can take a year or more for maternity leave, and the men get time off as well. The government pays families a certain stipend when a new baby is born until it is 18. Sick time is unlimited.


Overall, it was a very interesting and informative day.

Vanessa's Vocational Day at the Swedish Social Insurance Agency in Lulea

The Swedish pension is quite complex, especially when it has to be explained in another language. My contact did a great job, though I think he was a bit nervous.

The Swedish pension plan has recently been changed and so, currently there are various plans for different age groups as the government tries to phase out the old plan.

The national basic pension plan for those born in 1938 or later consists of income/supplementary pension, premium pension and guarantee pension and is administered by the Swedish Social Insurance Agency and the Premium Pension Authority. The pension is based on income earned from age 16 until the year 1998. 18.5% of income is paid to the pension system, with 16% going to income pension and 2.5% going to premium pension. Employees can choose the funds they would like to invest in with the premium pension. There are pension entitlements for sickness benefits, parental benefit, unemployment benefit, and sickness and activity compensation. Individuals can start drawing from their pensions at age 61.

This is just a gist of the pension plan, so if you would like to know more, let me know and we can discuss one on one.
-Vanessa

Gammelstad UNESCO World Heritage Site

Luleå has the old inner city up the river called Gammelstad (old town) that has been named a World Heritage site by Unesco. It is one of only a few remaining church towns. It was built in the 15th century with 400 small homes surrounding the church. The tiny homes, usually one room with bunks, a fireplace and table were built to be used for the family to have a place to stay when coming to church or a festival. Because this area of Sweden is remote and the population was scattered, it was necessary to travel long distances to go the church and town. The small privately owned house was their lodging away from home. Today many have been handed down generation to generation and are still family owned. They cannot be a permanent residence as they have no running water or toilets but instead communal ones that have been added. They cannot be changed as they are required to be kept in their original state.

Impressions of Northern Sweden

We have been in Northern Sweden for just over a week now and thought we would pass on some of the things we have noticed.

More Swedes in this area have brown hair rather than blond.
The Swedes have been fun, accomodating, and great to be with, not quiet and reserved.
The Arctic is beautiful with mountains, streams, trees, quaint towns- not a barren wasteland of ice.
The food is varied, delicious, and all home made. It has never been plain or boring and we have not had any Swedish meatballs.
Life is rich in outdoor activities all year round- snow mobiling, skiing, water kite skiing, boat ice racing, ice fishing, dog sledding, hiking, swimming, climbing, biking, horseback riding, sailing and I am sure there are more.
The houses are warm and comfortable with all of the most modern appliances and conveniences that we have.
There is ethnic variety as the Swedes have opened their borders to refugees from all over the world- Africa, Bosnia, Iraq.
The Fall folliage is as brilliant as that of New England and in fact much of the topography looks similar.
The Baltic Sea freezes all the way to Finland and people cross it.
All in all the people that live here in Northern Sweden love their rich outdoor life, no traffic, great food, family, and friends, yet all of the modern conveniences. We love it too.

Facts about Umea

Umea was officially founded in 1622 by Gustavus II Aldophus, after the town was granted a it's second royal charter. In 1714, the city was burned down by Russian soldiers. Russian troops withdrew from Umea in 1809.

The city burned again in 1888 by a widespread fire in which 2500 of the 3000 city inhabitants lost their homes. In order to avoid similar disasters, the city planted a great number of birch trees to prevent any future fires from spreading. As a result, Umeå is now the City of the Birches.

In 1963, Umea became a university city. Umea has a population of over 104,000 inhabitants. The average age of individuals is around 36. It is 642 km away from Stockholm.

Umea

The team was in Umeå from Saturday, April 12 through Tuesday, April 15. It was our stop before arriving in Ovik.

We had free time with our hosts on Saturday evening and Sunday. Some of our activities included walking, hiking, snow-mobiling, going to the spa, or just relaxing. On Monday, we visited the Umeå Library, one of the main attractions and economic anchors of the city. At the University, we met an American who had moved to Umea after starting a family with a Swedish woman. He works for the University's IT department developing/maintaining English language content.

After our presentation at the Norrlandsoperan (Opera House), we visited a power and heating plant that incinerates garbage for energy. We were all fascinated by the young woman using a joystick to mix the mountain of garbage.

On Tuesday, we visited the the operations of Umeå Cab at Volvo Trucks and the Turstburea Art Exhibition.

Erin´s Vocational Day Umeå

Today I joined my host Anders Iacobaeus at Sweden´s Court of Appeal where he is a judge. I met all the judges at the Court and was introduced

Laura's First Day in Umea

I have joined my new host Maria and her family here in Umea. During our first evening together we attended the equivalent of an indoor block party. First, a small group of her friends joined us at home for wine and appetizers. Then we all rode bicycles to the party (about 15 minutes away). The name of the street is called wolf road and as such the announcer was wearing a wolf costume and his assistants were wearing little red riding hood outfits. I knew right away that this was going to be interesting. The evening was filled with good food, singing, and dancing (a form of the fox trot). I proved yet again that I will not be asked, in any language, to join a chorus or a dance company. Pictures of the event will follow (once I get over the embarassment)

In and around Skellefteå

While in Skellefteå, our team Rotary coordinator is Mats Svensson, a well-known artist in the region. His family founded one of the largest companies in the area, a rubber and polymer plant that produced seals and linings for mine equipment. Years later sold, and now a public company, it is a worldwide manufacturer of custom rubber products for wide ranging applications. The team had a tour of the plant along with a tour of Mats' studio as shown.

Breads in Sweden

Bread in Sweden varies from region to region, many towns having their own speciality. Near Kiruna they use a wood-fired community stone oven that could be rented for the day. Old recipes and for making the bread are shared in these community ovens, often located in an old cluster of original buildings . In Skellefteå we had another unique oportunity to visit a commerical bread factory for a tour. Many varieties of flat breads similar to crisp America crackers. Some are hearty wheat and others white, good to eat with butter or cheese.

Umea

Posted by Sandy:
While in Umeå, I had the pleasure of getting to know the Lindgrens, my host family. Stig-Ake, the head of the family, is a Luthern pastor, businessman, pilot, and Nobel Peace Prize winner. It is hard to imagine one person with all of these attributes but he has managed to fit amazing things into his life. Stig-Ake was part of a UN Task force in Lebanon that was awared the Nobel Peace Prize in 1988 for their efforts to bring peace to that region.

Their home, built in 1944, is the former house of a lumber mill owner who had connections in Stockholm. At the time, Umeå was a northern city where people from the south could come on hunting expeditions. Even members of the Royal family came to stay in the guest house and hunt the grounds.

I enjoyed the my tour of their home by the children, and a tour of the grounds by their mother, Asa. Stig-Ake took me up in their small plane for a view of the city. We could see all the way to Finland over the Baltic Sea.

Vocational Day in Ovik

Our second day in Ovik was spent on our various vocational visits. Enjoy the attached photos.

Laura's Vocational Days

I have had some wonderful and varied experiences in private veterinary hospitals, at distrikt (governmental) hospitals, and on farm calls. In the small animal hospitals, I learned that the practice of veterinary medicine is virtually the same as in the states. The major differences include the widespread use of pet insurance in Sweden and surgical practices regarding spaying and neutering cats and dogs. Due to the high percentage of people that have pet insurance, veterinarians are able to do virtually any basic diagnostics without a discussion of payment with the owner. This makes client interaction much simpler and less confrontational than in the states. Until recently, around 1990, it was illegal to spay or neuter a pet unless they had some medical condition (infection, cancer, etc.) that left no other option. Therefore, only recently have they begun more commonly practicing these surgeries. Despite this, there does not appear to be an over population problem in dogs or cats. There are ,of course, are other subtle differences in vaccinations, surgical technique, and preventative medicine based on region. I very much enjoyed my time with the veterinarians and staff that I have met. Enjoy the pictures.

Arrival in Örnsköldsvik (aka Övik)

Today, the team arrived by car in Övik, a coastal town further south along the Bay of Bothinia. We were met by Jan, a Rotarian and the GSE chair for this community. We were immediately treated to Fika (coffee break), a walk and views of galleries and the town. After this tour and wonderful explanation of the sights and economy for Övik, we made further plans to relax and use our available free time to it's fullest extent. The dinner of Moose lasagna brought the day to a close, but the evening had just begun. After dinner, we walked to a high point to view the archipelago and the mountains to the west. Again, our hosts were amazingly hospitable upon our arrival. Attached, you should see some photos from the day's adventures.

Fire Stations Lulea and Örnsköldsvik

Previous to our arrival in Örnsköldsvik, I had an opportunity to visit Norrlandsflyg, the largest air ambulance operation in Sweden. This was an unique opportunity to talk shop with the pilots and co-pilots of the (American) Sikorsky helicopters which provide service throughout Nordlaands. (Look for Erin's photos of the airport). Ambulance operations are somewhat different in Sweden, with municipalities and larger districts providing service, augmented by the National resources such as Norrlandsflygg. But as english is the language of flying the world over, I had no communication difficulties with the pilots and crew I met while visiting the airport in Gellivåre. We were even able to swap some stories about memorable calls -- emergency work is pretty much the same the world over. Adrenaline does not care if you are Swedish or American, you get the call, you get a little excited, your vision narrows, your heart pumps a little easier, and you go to work. The satisfaction is in a job well done.

At Övik, I had another exceptional visit with the municipal fire department, thanks to Assistant Chief Haaglund and his firefighters. Previously, I was able to join Chief Bylin and the crew in Luleå, where I got a superb overview of the 112 dispatch center, as well as the operations of the firefighters and their Swedish engine companies. In Luleå, they apparently specialize in cold weather operations, as they are so close to 66 degrees north latitude and winter is such a long season. Due in part to their cold weather ops, and the specialized gear they wear, Swedish firefighters are permitted to wear beards, while in Massachusetts we are a clean shaven lot. We don't use the same hooded system on outerwear and prefer a direct seal from our face to the SCBA mask. The end result is pretty much the same, but even in firefighting, it's interesting that there's more than one way to skin a cat!



Back in Övik, I was able to closely inspect the equipment, including the Skanska Tower, with a 30m bucket and ladder combination. This is a highly complex ladder system, engineered in Finland, but mounted to a Swedish truck. Again, this specialized equipment is nowhere to be found in the USA. However, it appears to excel in the tight quarters of European cities and their tightly packed apartments. The straight-tip or bucket-and-ladder combination favored in the US is equally well suited to our environment of large streets, big windows and big roofs. One of the highlights of these visits was watching the firefighters in action, as I was able to standby at a training evolution. After some spaghetti was pulled off a truck, the next crew opted to put out their fire in the "American style". They performed a beautiful Vent-Enter-Search operation and had the fire room vented in about 6 minutes after initial smoke diving. These firefighters are more than welcome to visit Massachusetts to see us work in town or in the forest at their next opportunity.

Time to relax in Harnosand

After leaving Ornskoldsvik our team headed south to Harosand. Along the way we were brought to the High Coast area. The High Coast is a World Heritage Site as it is very unique. The land in the area is rising 8 millimeters a year due to the large glaciers that used to cover the land. Since they have melted the land has continued to rise. We were able to hike the mountain that dominated the landscape, Skuleskogen. Skuleskogen was once the coastline but since the rising of the land it is now a large mountain. The view from the top was amazing. We were able to overlook the Baltic Sea and many islands.

After our descent we were driven to Harnosand. Along the way we crossed a beautiful bridge, much like the suspension bridges in the US. Upon our arrival we were greeted by our host families. The program for Harnosand was relax! That was music to the teams ears as we were all very tired! I (Erin) stayed with Ake and Agneta who had a home on the sea, talk about relaxing! During our stay in Harnosand we visited Edmo Lift which was Europe's largest manufacturers of scissor tables used to life heavy objects. The company which is about 40 years old is still a family owned and operated business. Other things the team enjoyed while in Harnosand, sour herring, not too bad if covered in creme fresh and red onion, hiking along the seaside, and time for shopping. I celebrated my birthday at Agneta and Ake's home and was awoken at 8am with a Swedish birthday song. They also came bearing gifts, I was given 3 tubes of Kalles Kaviar, a very special Swedish food and a key chain with the Swedish horse on it! At lunch the team bought me a birthday cake and some beautiful candles (very light and easy to pack!). Overall Harnosand was wonderful and I definitely had a birthday to remember, thanks to all! Now off to Sundsvall!

What a trip it has been!

Well, we arrived in Sundsvall rested up and ready for the Rotary District Conference. In Sundsvall we visited Permobil, a company that manufactures wheelchairs. We saw vehicles being outfitted for people with disabilities. It was interesting as they build wheelchairs for all types of terrain. Thursday we were treated to a soccer game as the local Sundsvall team was playing a team from the south of Sweden. Before the game we gathered in the VIP room and had a drink. After the soccer game we had a Pot-Luck dinner with Laura's host family, Peter and Gunilla. The food was great! Another host, Anna-Lena, made meatballs, some of the first Swedish meatballs we had while travelling.

Saturday afternoon, the team gave it's final presentation. We are thankful as we have recited about 15 presentations and know each other's story so well! Saturday night we were guests at the Rotary Dinner held in Sundsvall's old town hall in a beautiful meeting room. It was nice to meet Rotarians from around the district and to visit with friends we have made along the way. Today we said goodbye to our wonderful families in Sundsvall. The team flew to Stockholm where we were met by Sandy's husband Arthur. The team said it's goodbyes for now. Laura will continue her travels in Ireland, Vanessa and Alex depart Stockholm in a few days, and Erin leaves Stockholm on Friday while Sandy and Arthur head to Norway.

We have had an amazing visit to Northern Sweden. We were able to see and experience such wonderful things and feel that we have developed lifelong friendships. The team was wonderful, and we enjoyed being with each other. Our thanks go again to the Rotary Foundation for this opportunity and to the local clubs for sponsorship. We look forward to sharing memories when we return home.
The GSE Sweden Team Schedule:

March 30 Kiruna
April 2 Gallivare
April 5 Lulea
April 12 Umea
April 16 Ornskoldsvik
April 19 Harnosand
April 22 Sundsvall